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Valve adjustment - Can-Am - How To Topics - ATVs - Can-Am Headquarters ...Aurora Wheelers ATV Forum
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 Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 05:14 pm
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trailrider2




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1. MUST BE DONE ON A STONE COLD MOTOR

2. Whenever working on the engine, disconnect the battery.

Clean your wheeler, everything around and above your valve covers. I should have done a better job. Removing the spark plugs makes it easier to cycle the engine. I used a small screwdriver and some compressed air to clean around the plugs first.

Next remove the valve covers. I'll be honest, I was unable to remove the rear cover from the bike but I did manage to get it out of the way enough to be able to adjust the valves.

Remove the plug screw and O-ring with a 14mm allen wrench. Red arrow.

Remove the crankshaft position sensor. Yellow arrow.  **This will be your view to the magneto flywheel. **




Attachment: valves 009 [800x600].JPG (Downloaded 106 times)



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 Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 05:25 pm
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trailrider2




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I started with the front cylinder, this is cylinder number one. In order to adjust the valves the piston must be at top dead center. Being a 4 stroke engine this happens twice. Insert the 14mm wrench where you removed the plug screw. This is how you are going to turn the engine.

There are two lines on the camshaft timing gear. Set these paralell with the cylinder head.

Attachment: valves 004 [800x600].JPG (Downloaded 106 times)



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 Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 05:30 pm
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trailrider2




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Looking down into the hole where you removed the crankshaft position sensor you should a number 1. There is a 50 % chance you won't see it. Remember the 4 stroke. If you don't see it, cycle the timing gear another revolution. 360 degrees.

Attachment: valves 003 [800x600].JPG (Downloaded 106 times)



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 Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 05:36 pm
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trailrider2




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There are 4 valves per cylinder, 2 intake, 2 exhaust. The intake valves are on the side of the cylinder where the fuel goes in. The exhaust valves are on the side of the cylinder where the exhaust comes out.

Attachment: valves 005 [800x600].JPG (Downloaded 106 times)



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 Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 05:41 pm
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trailrider2




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These are the specs the 2007 500, 650, and 800. I'll post the 400 seperately.

I settled on .006" for the exhaust and .004" for the intake.

Attachment: valve specs 001 [800x600].JPG (Downloaded 106 times)



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 Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 05:50 pm
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trailrider2




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Insert your feeler guage. You want to feel a slight drag. If adjustment is neccessary, loosen the lock nut, turn the screw and then retighten.

This picture is actually of the number 2 cylinder.

"Intake"

Attachment: valves 007 [800x600].JPG (Downloaded 105 times)



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 Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 05:51 pm
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trailrider2




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Number 2 cylinder again.

"Exhaust"

Attachment: valves 008 [800x600].JPG (Downloaded 106 times)



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 Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 05:57 pm
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trailrider2




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I hope that doesn't confuse anyone, it was just easier to get a picture of the rear cylinder.

For the rear cylinder or #2 you want to line up the marks the camshaft timing gear again, this time you should see a number 2. Once again, 50/50 chance.

Attachment: valves 001 [800x600].JPG (Downloaded 104 times)



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 Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 06:02 pm
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trailrider2




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Valve specs for a 2007 400.

:hmr: Turns out the 400 is exactly the same.

I have some concerns about this. The specs are legit but the process of finding top dead center may be different. Anyone that may have experience with the 400 please feel free to add your comments.

Attachment: valves 001 [640x480].JPG (Downloaded 103 times)

Last edited on Sun Apr 20th, 2008 11:28 pm by trailrider2



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 Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 06:14 pm
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BrianE
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Nice job . Thank you for taking the time to do this. :urok:



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 Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 06:41 pm
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Russell




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Thanks Trail, nice job but I will be leaving this stuff to the pros. When can I deliver mine to you?:ban:



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 Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 09:39 pm
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Thanks guys. Russell, I'm not that far from CAW. :tg:

It is pretty simple but at the same time a pain in the azz. There is just not a lot of room move around in there. Nothing like popping the hood on a car.



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 Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 10:52 pm
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Good job :thumb2:

 

If you want to edit or add something down the road, just let me know.

 

 



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 Posted: Sun Apr 20th, 2008 11:10 pm
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I failed to mention this should be done only on a stone cold engine.



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 Posted: Mon Apr 21st, 2008 12:47 am
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outlandish
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Great How To trailrider2!!



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 Posted: Tue Apr 22nd, 2008 12:01 pm
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OSOKILL
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here is a trick that works good for me when setting the gap.
1. I crack open the nut
2. insert the feeler gauge and tighten the screw till it just stops me being able to freely move the gauge.
3. then I remove the screwdriver and put the wrench back on and tighten the nut.
once tightened it makes the gap a smidgen wider and the gauge can be moved with a slight resistance.  TADA Perfect :)



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 Posted: Wed Apr 23rd, 2008 01:07 pm
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lar69




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Awesome job trailrider, I was waiting for someone to do a "how to". Should a person have new valve cover gaskets on hand?

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 Posted: Wed Apr 23rd, 2008 01:37 pm
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lar69 wrote: Awesome job trailrider, I was waiting for someone to do a "how to". Should a person have new valve cover gaskets on hand? You can reuse the ones you have now. The gaskets are like rubber, much like the cvt gasket and should come off with the cover.

The bolts are much like the cvt cover as well, they tell you when to stop.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 23rd, 2008 06:54 pm
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OSOKILL
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I added the "stone cold motor" part to the top of yer first post if you want it changed in any way let me know :)



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 Posted: Wed Apr 23rd, 2008 07:28 pm
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trailrider2




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Thanks, in your post, #16 you say a smidgen wider. Don't you mean a smidgen tighter?

Last edited on Wed Apr 23rd, 2008 10:36 pm by trailrider2



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 Posted: Wed Apr 23rd, 2008 08:06 pm
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OSOKILL
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no you would think it would make it tighter. so tight yer feeler gauge would be stuck in there forever LOL  but when you tighten the nut it actually makes the gap a bit wider and you can move the gauge with very minor resistance. try it next time. I only tighten the screw to the point it freezes the gauge in place the nut frees it up again just enough to be perfect



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 Posted: Wed Apr 23rd, 2008 10:34 pm
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trailrider2




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Well that was exactly what I did. I didn't try to hold the screw and tighten the nut. I just tightened the nut and pulled the gauge out, felt perfect. I guess the wording threw me.:shrug:



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 Posted: Wed Apr 23rd, 2008 11:12 pm
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