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Review of Bomb's Visco Lok Differential - Can-Am - Sticky Topics - ATVs - Can-Am Headquarters ...Aurora Wheelers ATV Forum
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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 11:03 pm
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outlandish
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A Review of Bombardier's Visco Lok Differential






Visco Lok differential from Bombardier Quest


Having owned three Bombardier Outlanders, I feel I have had enough experience with the Visco Lok front differential to write a short review.


I suppose I can start with a quote from  Bombardier.



" Bombardier ATVs’ four-wheel drive system is the most intelligent in the industry. Visco-Lok constantly monitors front wheel speed and, if it detects one wheel spinning faster than its mate, it progressively sends more power to the wheel with the better traction. And it does it all without the rider even having to lift a finger."


That is exactly true.  Push the 4wd button and it works when needed and disengages when not needed. The big benefit to having this differential is with the 4wd button engaged, you have "3wd" or an "open" differential. This makes steering and handling very easy and also gives the extra traction of the 3rd wheel being driven. When things get a bit tougher going and you start to lose traction, the Visco Lok will sense the front wheel is spinning and lock in the other side. Now you have a locked front end, true 4wd to help claw your way out of that nasty mud hole.


This works very well in most situations, however, there are times when a "true locker" is superior to the Visco unit. For example: say you are climbing a steep technical rock trail. You start spinning enough to lock in the front dif. and things start going OK, but you have to let off the power. Now you are back to "3wd" and have to spin a front wheel again to lock it. This is a situation where you do not want any wheel spin and a true locker would be much better.


The Visco Lok only locks the front dif as long as you are on the gas. When you let up, it reverts back to "3wd" or open differential. This is because when the Visco Lok pumps up, the front end is locked in true 4x4 until you stop spinning, then the oil pressure bleeds off to unlock the front differential.  This is the only downside of the unit that I can see. Although it can be a big downside, if you are in that situation.



Here is a quote from the company, GKN Viscodrive:


"The new Visco Lok LSD features an uniquely designed self contained viscous shear pump that provides tremendous freedom in specifying the level of torque transfer that is provided at any particular speed difference. Small torque transfers can be provided at very low speed differences to improve handling while high torque transfer with immediate response reaction is available at higher slip speeds due to its new progressive characteristic.


The clutch pack is engaged by an unique patented viscous shear pump which is a self contained silicone fluid pump which generates a pressure against the piston based on a speed difference across the pump unit. The pump is 100% filled with silicone fluid and requires no servicing."



The Visco Lok is a huge improvement over the standard "open" differentials in other ATVs that claim to have a limited slip dif, but usually, really only have 3wd.


Pros:


The Visco Lok is a no-brainer. Just push the 4wd button and go. Steering and handling are very easy with it engaged and you don't have to stop to engage a locker. In most situations, the Visco unit works very well and for most riders is an excellent, true 4wd system.




Cons:


When in a situation where no traction of the front wheels can be found, the Visco Lok senses both wheels slipping, therefore it doesn't know which wheel to apply the lock to and it takes a few rotations of one of the wheels before it will then lock both wheels up and you will go . You have to stay on the gas or it will disengage back to 3wd.


Another (probably better) explanation:

From JimJa43 in this THREAD

Kevin, Technically you are correct, but from a practical standpoint so are those espousing the 3-wheel drive formula. And you are a smart guy so you know exactly what's being said here.

It's really about torque, not power per sea. In a situation where the front wheels are spinning and the vehicle is not moving, torque is applied to both front wheels equally and the wheel with the LEAST traction determines the amount applied to the opposite front wheel which receives the SAME amount of torque as the wheel with the LEAST traction. Presumably the wheel with the least torque is not getting enough POWER to the ground IOT move the vehicle. Posi-traction, excuse me, Visco-Lok, is nothing more than a limited slip which under the above situation gradually raises the torque to BOTH front wheels until the wheel with the GREATER traction begins to either spin or move the vehicle.

With a direct connection between the front and rear axles, and the rear axle locked, which they all are save for Polaris' turf mode for their side-by-side model, torque is split between the front and the rear.

So everyone is right here. Kevin, you are of course technically correct, but from a practical standpoint, it really is 3-wheel drive since the torque is applied to the wheel with the least amount of traction, which will not provide the power required to get the job done. But you know that...



More info on the Visco Lok technology:
http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/viscolok.htm







 Images and some information have been gathered from the web. The author makes no claims as to the accuracy of this article. It is provided as a review in the opinion of the author only.




 



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 Posted: Tue Jun 28th, 2005 12:18 am
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LaMigraTx
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Hey Don, Do you know how much the front wheel has to spin before the Visco-Lok kicks in? Like the Polaris the rear wheels have to spin 1/5 or 15% slippage before the front wheels lock. Some people wanted to know, thanks.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 28th, 2005 01:54 am
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Well written article outlandish...  easy for someone who doesn't understand all the technicle stuff (me) to get what you're saying.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 28th, 2005 10:33 am
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outlandish
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LaMigraTx wrote: Hey Don, Do you know how much the front wheel has to spin before the Visco-Lok kicks in? Like the Polaris the rear wheels have to spin 1/5 or 15% slippage before the front wheels lock. Some people wanted to know, thanks.
I think everyone you ask about that has a different answer. Here's mine. On both my Outlanders, I seem to get about 3/4 to 1 full revolution before locking. But if on the gas hard it seems like it's less and it happens so fast it is almost instantaneous.

I have personally witnessed Polaris's slippage. 1/5? :lol: Well maybe the 2 different machines I observed were exceptions but what I saw as a lot more than 1/5 wheel spin before locking.



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 Posted: Wed Jun 29th, 2005 03:49 am
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LaMigraTx
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Yeah, I have to on the Po Po's, but I don't want to start a war :cool: Whats strange about the Polaris machines and most people don't realize this is that when in AWD it still drives in 2wd, until the rear wheels slip then the front wheels lock.

You would think when a machine is in AWD or 4wd you would want all four wheels turning, and then when the front wheels slip it locks. To me Bombardier definately has the best Auto lock system out there. When in 4wd all four wheels are turning, front wheel slips, bam the wheels lock. Oh, well I guess thats why everyone buys different machines. Thanks on the wheel slippage, I ll add it to the article as a side note. Thanks.



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 Posted: Wed Jun 29th, 2005 03:52 pm
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I'm just wondering if something isnt wrong with my outty... i was out in our back yard crawlin over a tree branch... more of a log and it started to spin, i locked in the 4wd in lo range and started to spin again... i let it spin and it took around 6 - 8 spins for it to engage... i tried it again and i tapped the brake.. over i went like it engaged... is something wrong?



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 Posted: Wed Jun 29th, 2005 07:22 pm
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Were both tires spinning? I mean if  neither has traction, then it takes longer to engage it than it would if one had traction. 8 times does seem excessive. BTW Thanks for joining  and welcome



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 Posted: Wed Jun 29th, 2005 07:27 pm
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One time on a sand bar one was barely spinning and the other was wheelin it, and on a tree branch in our back yard.... it would be on an angle and it took about 6-8 times till it engaged... sometimes it takes 4 times sometimes less... and then only one tire would spin... on my other 04 outty you couldnt tell it engaging like it was already engaged.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 4th, 2005 09:41 pm
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I've been reading for hours now - some real good info guys. I haven't found a straight answer to this question though. My dealer told me I could shift to 4X4 anytime I wanted but in the owners manual it clearly states to stop the machine, switch to 4X4 and then continue on - What's the real scoop on the Outlander 800 two wheel to four wheel switching?

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 Posted: Sun Dec 4th, 2005 10:26 pm
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outlandish
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The book says full stop but most guys  will tell you that as long as your going slow and there is no load on the diff it will shift OK. Never try it while spinning or under any kind of load......



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 Posted: Thu Dec 22nd, 2005 07:14 pm
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I dont want to start an argument or anything but has anyone found out a way to have a true 4wheel drive locker. I know the Visco Lok is good for most of the time, but I am looking for when I want to lock all four wheels to pull and not let go if I let up on the throtle or brake some. Just figured someone would find a way to do it.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 18th, 2006 03:42 am
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i dont see why they couldnt add a button so that you could hold the front in lock mode?so when you do get into those situations where its locked then you back off throttle you would still have true 4x4.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 18th, 2006 03:49 am
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OSOKILL
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DirtBike that's a great idea and I agree with you 100% :) with MY luck now that I have my own 800 ... next year thats gonna be the biggie upgrade LOLOL



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 Posted: Wed Jan 18th, 2006 03:52 am
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ya no doubt eh just like when i bought my quad cab dodge next year the mega cab came out argh cant win.maybe it will be a simple upgrade kit you could get if they come out with something like that.



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 Posted: Wed Jan 18th, 2006 04:02 am
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OSOKILL
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DIRTBIKEMIKE wrote: ya no doubt eh just like when i bought my quad cab dodge next year the mega cab came out argh cant win.maybe it will be a simple upgrade kit you could get if they come out with something like that.You can bet if it happens,  i am hoping for the upgrade kit LOL



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 Posted: Sat Jan 28th, 2006 04:26 pm
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The 4x4 on all outlanders uses an acuator motor and small diameter pin to engage 4x4. When you select 4x4 on your switch, the solinoid takes power from the battery and sends it to the act. motor. YOU DO NOT want to switch from 2x4 to 4x4 on the go, at a slow speed or anything but a complete stop! If you do this repeately, then you will sheer off the pin that engages 4x4 and be without 4x4 till you take the machine to a dealer ( act. motor costs about $684.00 CAN BTW!



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 Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2006 12:01 pm
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can u buy a new sheer pin?

just looked at diagram...which pin breaks?

Last edited on Tue Jan 31st, 2006 12:14 pm by kraked

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 Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2006 04:01 pm
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P# 705 400 175 It's called a slider $25.00 Can:)



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 Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2006 05:52 pm
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thats a 400 & 330 number, any problems on 800s ?

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 Posted: Tue Jan 31st, 2006 06:36 pm
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I haven't done anything on the 800's except for on our demo, the oil leak and clearing up the speedo issues ( learning how the speedo works ). But I did do four pins/sliders on previous outty 400HO's. The owners kids were always switching from 2x4 to 4x4 on the go and eventually sheered the sliders off. Easy to fix, cheap part, big pain if your in the bush though.



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 Posted: Thu Mar 2nd, 2006 04:51 am
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Northern Bomb Man wrote: The 4x4 on all outlanders uses an acuator motor and small diameter pin to engage 4x4. When you select 4x4 on your switch, the solinoid takes power from the battery and sends it to the act. motor. YOU DO NOT want to switch from 2x4 to 4x4 on the go, at a slow speed or anything but a complete stop! If you do this repeately, then you will sheer off the pin that engages 4x4 and be without 4x4 till you take the machine to a dealer ( act. motor costs about $684.00 CAN BTW!
This pretty much settles the question imo.  Is there much chance of shearing when engaged properly, then going in and out of 4wd depending on conditions of engaging, then disenengaging under slippery conditions?

 



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 Posted: Thu Mar 2nd, 2006 11:41 am
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