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 Posted: Sun Aug 28th, 2005 06:14 am
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turboman
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On a hard dirt surface where there is excellent traction,  I believe (propose) that a selective 2WD/4WD atv should accelerate faster in 2WD than in 4WD because of the parasitic losses from driving the front differential and axles and tire drag in 4WD..

Depending on whether or not your machine will "wheelie", in 2WD you'd want to sit toward the back to maximize traction (if the front stays down by itself) or lean on the bars if it tends to lift.

You might have to modulate the throttle to prevent too much rear wheel spin depending on how big your engine is.  But once your tires grab and give it full throttle I'm proposing that you will accelerate faster in 2WD than 4WD everything else being equal (driver weight, etc.).

Rebuttals? \\\\>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>:aniwh:



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 Posted: Tue Oct 4th, 2005 01:35 am
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drees
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I think that 4WD will give you better accelaration. By using 4wd you get more horsepower to the road surface. Therefore you can lay in to the throttle more without spinning out.

Anybody got access to Timing Triggers? I'd love to try to prove the theory.




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 Posted: Thu Oct 27th, 2005 04:50 pm
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outlandish
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Acceleration might be better but what happens to top end?



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 Posted: Thu Oct 27th, 2005 04:54 pm
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Survey Guy
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Just make it a 50 foot race!:sm:



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 Posted: Thu Oct 27th, 2005 04:59 pm
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outlandish
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In 2wd I can't even hook up in 50 feet LOL



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 Posted: Fri Nov 11th, 2005 01:38 am
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Turboman-- I thought the same as you; but the little Subaru cars prove different they smoked the Corvette z6 On takeoff. Plus I thought 2-wheel drive should be faster top end. Haven't tried my Outty yet ,but my Suzuki Vinson is faster all the way around in 4x4. It is 6 mph faster top end in 4-wheel drive.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 11th, 2005 02:25 am
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turboman
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One guy's opinion... could be wrong. The 800's problem is front end lift and rear squat. The rear squat is the biggest problem because it causes the front to lift. The front tires are very lightly loaded and skipping in the air half the time. It takes HP to drive the front differential.  Because of wheel lift maybe only 50% of the HP to the front is effective.

I'd rather have 100% of HP go to the rear end. But the front has to be kept down (in 2WD) and the rear must be stiffened so it doesn't squat so bad.  Ballast on the front rack would be beneficial (100lbs).

If was looking for max acceleration I'd put the front and rear shocks on stiffest.  Run the lowest profile 25" radial (probably Holeshot ATR's) on the stamped aluminum OEM wheels for lightest unsprung weight.

I still feel a MAX has an advantage because the longer wheelbase lessens the tendency to lift the front. The extra 50lbs is peanuts. Riders can be a 200lbs difference.

And don't crack the throttle wide open imediately. 3/4 throttle for first 10 feet, listening for wheel squeal. Wheel spin is wasted HP. ALL THE ABOVE APPLIES TO ONLY HARD SURFACE DRAGGING.

If there's a traction problem then obviously 4WD would be preferential.  :2cent:

Last edited on Fri Nov 11th, 2005 02:59 am by turboman



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 Posted: Fri Nov 11th, 2005 06:09 am
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BAJA X




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If you want MAX ACCELERATION, RIDE A DS 650 X:aniwh::omg::raz: sorry Outlandish just couldn't resist. You know us sport bike riders are a different breed.LOL

Last edited on Fri Nov 11th, 2005 06:13 am by BAJA X



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 Posted: Fri Nov 11th, 2005 12:43 pm
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Survey Guy
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BAJA X, my neighbors kid had a Banshee, piped, clutched, and some other things but holy christ did that haul the mail. Very fun but I knew I was about to hurt myself so I quit riding it.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 10th, 2005 12:10 pm
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bartlettracing
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baja X .... I have a Baja x with a 30 shot of nos :whs:

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 Posted: Sat Mar 11th, 2006 02:45 am
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Ductape
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Parasitic losses to the front drive are virtually the same engaged or not... all the parts are turning... unless you leave the line on 2 wheels and stay on 2.

Traction will be better in 4wd. No way is a strong machine going to get 100% hookup in 2wd on dirt.

DT



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 Posted: Sat Mar 11th, 2006 06:34 pm
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rankrank1
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I agree that it sounds like a contradiction, but we have three 400 Max's in my riding group and all three of them are faster in 4wd even on pavement where traction is not an issue. Additionally, I feel they are much faster in the the woods in 4wd - especially in the corners. I can ride much faster and aggressively in 4wd in any riding situation in 4wd as compared to 2wd



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 Posted: Sun Mar 12th, 2006 06:45 am
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OSOKILL
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well look at it this way .....

In 2wd you have two rear wheels pushing everything. Even the UNused weight of the front axles, wheels and tires. Plus the rear wheels have a lifting effect on the front of the vehicle. so instead of going straight forward, its going forward and up.
 
Now 4wd. you have 4 wheels pulling weight equally in a forward direction.  no extra unused weight being pushed. in 2wd you have 2 wheels pushing 639 pounds of weight that's 319.5 on each wheel. in 4wd they are all pushing/pulling 159.75 each and that takes less effort to  move the weight and thus maximizing the efficiency of  yer avail HP and torque
 



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 Posted: Sun Mar 12th, 2006 08:32 am
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turboman
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That would be fine if the weight on all 4 wheels were the same. 1/4 of the total weight on each. Perhaps standing still that might be true but not when accelerating from a standing start.

The torque twist on the rear axle tends to make the rear squat and the nose lift. With initial rear tire "bite" the weight distribution is probably 90/10. Without added front ballast the front wheels are barely touching the ground and they contribute very little, maybe nothing, to initial acceleration.

With locked differentials power goes 50/50 (Visco lock would direct slightly differently). It's wasted on the front wheels the first few seconds of a pull.  And that would be where a race would be won.  After you get a few lengths ahead of your opponent you should be able to hold it if HP and total weight are similiar..

Just one opinion.   Rear tire traction is what will win. :2cent:



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 Posted: Sun Mar 12th, 2006 11:43 am
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outlandish
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Turboman is right. All the power in the world does you no good if you can't get it to the ground. Many races are won or lost at the starting line. If you were serious about racing, front ballast is the answer. It's hard to win with the front end in the air. :2cent:



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 Posted: Sun Mar 12th, 2006 09:05 pm
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OSOKILL
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there was a custom made  all wheel drive corvette around here several years back and  it would smoke a reg 2wd vette. the front tires also  doing the driving GETS more power to the ground helps get rid of yer burnouts.  I wonder if the 800 will still do the easy wheelie in high while locked in 4wd anyone ever try it?? kinda courious lol



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 Posted: Sun Mar 12th, 2006 09:47 pm
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turboman
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Isn't as simple as it sounds. Cars are a whole different ballgame. I'm on my 4th Subaru, 2 of which were 4WD turbos, both of which I ran in Solo2 and a couple drag strip trips.

Subarus or 4WD Corvettes (or 4WD Porsche 911 or Audi) don't lift the front wheels off the ground for reasons to lenghy to go into here.

Respectfully, not a good comparison.  :sm:



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 Posted: Tue May 2nd, 2006 06:29 am
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mopower
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Just race'em already

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 Posted: Tue May 9th, 2006 12:12 am
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OSOKILL wrote: there was a custom made  all wheel drive corvette around here several years back and  it would smoke a reg 2wd vette. the front tires also  doing the driving GETS more power to the ground helps get rid of yer burnouts.  I wonder if the 800 will still do the easy wheelie in high while locked in 4wd anyone ever try it?? kinda courious lol
 

Mine does.

Attachment: racing pics 003 (Medium) (Small).jpg (Downloaded 363 times)



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 Posted: Tue May 9th, 2006 12:27 am
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OSOKILL
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I tried it to AMD and it seems that mine wheelies even easier when locked in



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 Posted: Tue May 9th, 2006 12:55 am
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I'm going to try binding the suspension down next race.What do you think would be the best thing ratchet binders? 



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 Posted: Wed Aug 1st, 2007 11:44 pm
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Little trick.... Take out about 1 litre of engine oil and then try yer 50 ft times, less oil = less resistance to the crankshaft. Just don't race  past a 1/4 mile or U'll see engine damage.:2cent:



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 Posted: Thu Aug 2nd, 2007 12:14 am
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OSOKILL
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Northern Bomb Man wrote: Little trick.... Take out about 1 litre of engine oil and then try yer 50 ft times, less oil = less resistance to the crankshaft.
yer service dept getting slow there NBM???  tryin to drum up a little business I see LMAO