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Air Filer Maintenance - ATV Tech Tips - Tips, Toys, Tires, Ads, Misc - Can-Am Headquarters ...Aurora Wheelers ATV Forum
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 Posted: Mon Jun 27th, 2005 11:57 pm
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outlandish
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Air filters on off-road vehicles are kind of a weird thing. On the one hand, they’re relatively easy to keep maintained. And that’s a good thing, because other than filling the tank up with fuel, air filters are the component that needs the most frequent attention.
Despite all of this, the most common cause of ATV engine damage is running the machine with a dirty or mis-aligned air filter. A slight mistake made while cleaning and replacing a filter can lead to catastrophic engine failure. Besides engine damage, a neglected air filter just plain makes your quad run lousy. So why do so many riders have problems with their air filter maintenance chores? Maybe they just don’t know a few of the tricks and tips to doing it easy and right— tips that we’ve figured out over the years.

• Some filters are better than others. Aftermarket companies put lots of effort into making more efficient and longer-lasting filters than the factories provide. The best foam filters are dual-stage, with a more porous outer stage and a finer inner stage. Premium aftermarket air filters, for the money, are simply the best investment you can make for your ATV.

• It’s the oil, rather than the filter, that actually catches the dirt. That’s why using the correct type of oil and in the right amount is so important.

• Less oil doesn’t help your filter flow better. A properly oiled filter does not significantly reduce airflow. Without enough oil, dirt can pass through.

• Don’t use motor oil! A good filter oil has two components not found in plain old motor oil. A water-like solvent aids in dispersing the oil evenly. (It evaporates after about 12 hours.) Another component, which you can call "stickiness," keeps the oil suspended in the filter, preventing it from draining to the bottom and dripping off.

• Don’t use gasoline to clean your filter. Gas breaks down the glue which is used to bind the seams in a foam filter. Use the manufacturer’s specified cleaning system (like Twin Air’s cleaner and cleaning tub setup) to insure long filter life.

• After washing, a filter needs time to dry and additional time for the distribution solvent to evaporate. Having more than one filter means you’ll always have one ready to install and will be less likely to neglect this important part of your quad’s maintenance routine.

• There is no such thing as totally clean air. Even filters for personal watercraft build up dirt and require cleaning, so don’t underestimate what your ATV filter is going through.

• Pre-filters are the best innovation in the filter business since the two-stage foam units came along. Three companies make them: there’s Outerwears Pre-Filters, K&N Prechargers, and PC Racing’s Filterskins. They slip over the air filter and catch the largest contaminants before they even get to the real filter. There are specific pre-filters built for water-resistance or extra-fine dust.

• Many racers and dune riders use K&N filters, which differ from foam units. These filters consist of layers of fiber, sandwiched between two wire screens and pleated for more surface area. Oil is also applied to this type of filter. These types of filters aren’t recommended for real dusty or wet conditions, which are better handled by the foam units.

• If you ride for long periods in real dusty conditions, you should clean your air filter after every ride. Dune riders tend to pick up lots of sand, so they, too, need to stay on top of air filter maintenance, especially if they aren’t running a pre-filter. If you ride alone in a non-dusty environment you can get in quite a few days of riding before your filter needs cleaning.

• Don’t rely solely on a visual inspection of the filter in your machine to know if its clean. It may have taken on dust that you can’t see that is working its way through the pores. Take it out and take a look at it, and if there’s some crud you might as well go ahead and clean it. It’s cheap motor insurance.

FOUR-STEP FILTER CLEANING

STEP 1: First off, a pair of cheap disposable plastic gloves will make this entire process more pleasant. Start by removing your air filter from the quad, being careful not to knock any dirt into the intake boot. There are several ways to clean foam filters. The best is to use a spray can of good quality foam filter cleaner. Spray it on and let it sit for a few minutes to loosen up all the dirt and oil. Then rinse the filter out under warm water, making sure the water flows only from the inside out. Running water on the outside of the filter will force the dirt farther into the filter, rather than out. To do a really thorough job, you can take the next step of dipping the filter into another cleaner such as Twin Air Liquid Dirt Remover, but washing with the first cleaner usually is enough. Hold the filter up to the light periodically and check for dirt. If you still see contamination, give it another rinse. If foam filter cleaners aren’t available, washing the filter with soap and warm water works, but may take more elbow grease.

STEP 2: The next step is one many riders forget about. You have to let the filter air dry before you apply the oil. Don’t use a heat source such as hair dryer; this can damage the filter. A damaged air filter will pass dirt, and that’s the last thing you want for your motor. Once it’s dry, inspect it for any tears and to see if the seams are starting to separate. Air will flow through the path of least resistance, and a tear will be it.

STEP 3: Always use a quality foam filter oil; regular motor oil doesn’t work. The easiest way to oil a foam filter is to pour some oil into a zip lock bag and add the filter. Work the oil thoroughly into the filter, making sure you get it into every nook and cranny. There are also spray-on oils for filters. You still have to work the filter rigorously to make sure the oil has penetrated throughout the filter.

STEP 4: After oiling, let the filter sit overnight before installing. This will allow the excess oil to drain, and you can inspect it to make sure there are no dry spots. If you didn’t let the filter dry completely after cleaning, there may have been some water left, and oil doesn’t mix with water. This will result in unoiled spots on the filter when the water evaporates—not a good thing! When reinstalling, be sure not to let any dirt get on the inside of your filter after you cleaned it. If any gets in there, don’t try brushing it off; re-clean the filter. If the filter foam seats against the airbox itself, spread a layer of high-temperature grease on the portion of the filter that mates with the airbox and you are set. A clean air filter is the best thing you can do to keep your motor alive for a long time.



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