This is a how-to, to replace your warped inner CVT air guide, But it can be helpful for other reasons to get into the clutches. This should be applicable to 06 and 07 ~ 500, 650 and 800 Outys. Some of the 06 driven clutches are a little different in the helix area, but that’s a different topic.

Tools and stuff needed:

• 8, 10, 13, 17, 19mm sockets, with a few extensions.
• Philips or nut-driver for hose clamps.
• Torque wrench for re-installing stuff correctly.
• Non-marring hammer (hard plastic or rawhide).
• Belt removal tool. (BRP p/n 529035747) or a 3" + long 8mm bolt.
• Drive clutch puller. (BRP p/n 529035746) this is the only one that you really have to buy.
• Hi-Temp silicone.
• Loctite 243.
• CVT upgrade kit.
• A 1/2 day, and possibly a helper for about 10 minutes.

Optional tools:

• Driven clutch holder (BRP p/n 529035771)
• Drive clutch holder (BRP p/n 529006400)
  

(The above 2 tools are to hold the clutches, for breaking loose the bolts that hold them on and again to torque them back up, they can literally be replaced with a couple proper sized pins or bolts and a 2x4, I used a spanner (shock) wrench for the drive pulley and made a spanner for the driven. (You just need something that will fit without damaging the clutches.)


Torques involved:

• Drive clutch bolt ~ 74 ft. lbs.
• Driven clutch ~ 44 ft. lbs.

1. Take off the left footwell, it has to come off to make room for the removal of the driven (rear) pulley and it makes it easier to get at other stuff. (I took mine off at a later stage; it would have made a few things easier to just do it from the start!)

2. Remove the outer CVT cover.




3. Insert the sheave spreading tool of choice into the threaded hole on the outer driven pulley, run it all the way in, then remove belt.




4. To remove drive clutch, 1st, mark the inner and outer portions of the clutch sheaves with a felt pen along the top edge, they are a factory balanced pair.(You can see my marks in pics 3,4,5) Use a 19mm socket on the (normal r.h. threaded) bolt and restrain the pulley

just loosen a couple turns then hit the outer sheave with a hard mallet and it will come free. There are moving parts on this piece, so be careful it doesn't fall apart on you.

Next, insert your "BRP drive clutch puller tool" into the shaft and get as much tension on it as you can, (it's on a taper) now with a smack or two on the wrench/breaker bar, it will come off.



5. To remove the driven clutch, use 17mm socket on the (normal r.h.threaded) bolt, back it out a few turns.

Now's when a friend could be handy. The driven clutches are spring loaded, maybe 80 lbs or so and there are a couple inches of preload on it. It can be done alone but it is hard. Restrain the entire pair of clutches as you back the bolt all the way out, there is a little more than an inch of thread here.


6. Remove the rubber couplers to the inner guide, intake and exhaust, I found the best way was to roll them up over themselves after removing the hose-clamps.


7. Now take out the nine, 8mm bolts that are holding the warped inner guide on.


8. Now you can clean up areas you never knew existed (especially where the new guide touches) and maybe give that starter cable a tighten.


9. Install new inner air guide. I put silicone on both sides of the new o-rings and pressed them into place on the backside of the guide, I also dabbed some silicone around where the bolts will meet up with the engine and trans, (sorry no pic as I had orange hi-temp silicone all over my fingers and wasn't about to touch my camera.) The Dow 736 silicone starts to "skin" in about 15 minutes, so you need to "Get-r-done". Bolt the new guide on, using the new bigger bolts supplied with the kit. Use Loctite 243(blue) on these bolts. Check to see if any silicone has oozed into the shaft areas, if it has, use Q-tips or whatever to get it out. You can see the silicone on the other side
(pic 12).

Now is a good time to put a little anti-seize into the threaded holes where the outer cvt cover bolts up. Hook up your CVT intake and exhaust now too.




10. Before re-installing anything, CLEAN IT! at least blow it off. There is a lot of dust in the nooks and crannies.

That is the basics, I won't get into re-lubing anything here as in my case it was not deemed necessary.

11. Re-install driven pulley, I slid the helix on first, since it has to locate on some splines.


Then I took what’s left of the entire driven clutch assembly and slid it on, (here is where your friend comes in handy again) hold it and depress the spring until you can get that bolt started, I'd say at least 3 turns, then ratchet it all they way, then torque to 44 ft lbs, using a restraining device of some sort on the clutch.



12. To install the drive clutch, make sure the taper on the engine and the mating taper in the clutch are CLEAN, ABSOLUTELY CLEAN. Now hoist it all up there (felt marks aligned) start your bolt, ratchet it all the way, then torque to74 ft. lbs using a restraining device on the clutch.



13. Drive the sheave spreader in and put your "cleaned" belt back on (arrow points forward), in neutral you can, by hand, run the clutches around and the belt will find "home".

14. Put your "new" gasket in your old outer cover and re-install. Install footwell, check that everything was put back on/in. Clean up your area, and then go for a ride (if the silicone has cured). P.S. If anyone finds I’ve omitted something important or screwed something up, PLEASE let me know, so I can edit this.